Why doesn't the wireless mouse work on my laptop or computer? This is the question we will discuss in this article. They have already emailed me several times about what to do,

Why doesn't my wireless mouse work?

First of all, if this is possible, connect the wireless mouse to another computer or laptop. Works? So that's clearly not the problem. Try inserting the USB signal receiver into a different connector. If you have a computer, then connect the mouse from the back, and not from the front, as was usually done before. If you have a laptop and there are USB connectors on the left and right, possibly also on the back, then try connecting the mouse from different sides.

Fast decision

Now we will automatically fix the problem. This way, you won’t have to figure out why your wireless mouse isn’t working. To do this, follow the link here. A window will appear that you do not need to close; click on the “Run now” link. After which the download of the utility will begin. Now launch it, click “Accept”.

Don’t click anything, wait for the next window.

Similar articles

You will be asked to perform various actions, for example, turn on Wi-Fi if it is disabled, install a driver if it is not installed, etc. Before you click Fix, read what exactly will be fixed. This utility is not a solution to all ills; do not think that this is a magic wand, although sometimes it can be extremely useful.

Many users forget that wireless devices operate using batteries. Therefore, if the wireless mouse does not work, then pay attention to the batteries, they may be dead. Do not look at the backlight indicator (laser) at the bottom of the mouse. The voltage from the batteries may be enough to power it, but not enough for the rest of the full work. When the mouse starts working every once in a while, this is a sign that it needs to be replaced. If, after purchasing new batteries, the mouse refuses to work, then the matter is different and you need to understand further. Another very common problem is the laser in the mouse becoming clogged. In this case, it can be gently wiped with a cotton swab or ear cleaner.

Cheap wireless optical computer USB mouse iMice

Similar articles

Buy mouse here or Double cashback AliExpress

How to insert a battery into a wireless mouse

I'm coming back)

Similar articles

You can disassemble the mouse if you definitely think that the problem lies in dust and dirt. Any computer mouse can be disassembled simply, on an intuitive level (as a rule, it is enough to unscrew a couple of screws and then screw them back). Turn the mouse over where the laser is located, make sure that the mouse is turned on - the “ON” position. There is also a Reset or Connect button at the bottom, click on it and check the mouse.

Software problems

You may have recently installed programs that affect the operation of a wireless mouse. Remember what software you installed on your computer. If this is the case, then try removing it, restarting the computer and reconnecting the mouse. Did the mouse work? Then you need to understand this program. If you've tried everything, but still don't understand why the wireless mouse stopped working, then you should look at the Windows settings and understand why the wireless mouse doesn't work on your computer.

We are trying to bring the mouse back to life programmatically. Connect any simple mouse to your computer or laptop in order to perform the steps described below. You can do them without a mouse using the keyboard and hotkeys. Make sure that it is connected via a USB receiver to a working port (to be sure, check the port for functionality by connecting, for example, a flash drive, etc.), then go to “Start” - “Control Panel” - “Hardware and Sound”. In the “Devices and Printers” section we are specifically interested in the “Device Manager” inscription, click on it and the corresponding window opens in front of us. We are looking for “Mice and other pointing devices” here. Expand this branch and right-click on the name in the list (this is your mouse), select “Engage”. This option may not exist - then click “Disable” and then “Enable”.

And that's all I have for today. I sincerely wish you good luck with your wireless devices and I think that you managed to solve the problem when the wireless mouse does not work.

Are the batteries on your USB mouse low? In general, if the mouse is of high quality, then the batteries will last at least six months. Some people believe that wireless mice require battery replacement too often. But this is not so, the batteries on a USB mouse run out very slowly, because wireless mice switch off to idle mode, in which they do not consume energy, and this has been verified. I advise you to buy high-quality batteries for wireless mice so that they last a long time.

Batteries in a wireless mouse

The wireless mouse has stopped working, perhaps nothing bad happened, you just need to replace the batteries. How to change the batteries in a wireless mouse will be described below. But if the wireless mouse starts to work slower or stops working altogether, then it’s all a matter of battery power. If the batteries have nothing to do with it, then take out the adapter, wait a couple of seconds and carefully install the usb radio adapter. If the wireless mouse cursor stops moving, rebooting the adapter will probably help.

How to change batteries in a wireless mouse?

We turn off the mouse, open the lid, take out the old batteries, insert new ones - turn the mouse back on, it should work. The batteries are inserted according to their poles. A wireless mouse may not work if the USB adapter is not inserted properly, the USB connector itself does not work well or is loose.

How long does the battery last in a wireless mouse?

In laser wireless mice, the batteries will last for a long time - 8-10 months, but in optical mice they run out in just a couple of months, or rather 40 days.

When should you change the battery in a wireless mouse?

Pay attention to the movement of the cursor; if it moves more slowly, and the laser brightness has decreased, then it’s time to change the battery. Old wireless mice use up the battery much faster, in about a couple of weeks, but modern wireless mice consume the battery for a long time.

Do I need to remove the batteries from my wireless mouse at night?

In principle, any device consumes its battery, even when turned off. But wireless mice turn off automatically. Some models have a lever at the bottom that completely prevents battery drain.

What batteries should I put in my wireless mouse? Many people use Duracell-type capacitive batteries, but it’s better to just use expensive batteries.

Hi all. I’ll start right away with the matter, I have a wireless computer mouse and lately it’s been eating up the batteries too much. On the mouse itself it is written that the current consumption is 15 mA, I measured it - it really is 15 mA. But even with a 1900 mAh Ni-Mn battery, it lasted just over a week. At first nothing, then again I didn’t understand anything... It began to seriously stress me out, not because I was sorry for the money for batteries, but because it was too much to change them every time. I decided to install a battery from the phone, the capacity was larger, and the voltage was higher, in any case it would last for a longer time, but that was not the case, the mouse flatly refused to work with the battery. I already thought that I had burned it, but when I installed the battery, the mouse came to life... Having scoured the Internet, I did not find any acceptable solution to this problem with a very consuming mouse. I decided to solve the problem myself, it’s not good to change the batteries every 2-3 days.

I started looking for an alternative to batteries. There weren’t many options - make a mat with inductive current transmission, then the mouse would be powered by the mat, but then extra wires appeared and the mouse became not completely wireless, or install a more capacious battery. I decided to use the battery. And a 3.7V Li-Po battery from an MP3 player had been hanging on the table for a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, I don’t know the capacity (I found what kind of MP3 this battery was from - it says the operating time is 8 hours), it fit perfectly in size and held a charge well. Taking into account my early experience of connecting 3.7 V to a mouse, I began to think about how to make a stabilizer for 1 - 1.5 V.

Here the almighty Internet helped and gave me a stabilizer circuit for . Good enough option for me. Compact and just capable of stabilizing the voltage at 1.2 V. Fortunately, there was one LM available, it was immediately found and checked for serviceability. And indeed it stabilized the voltage at 1.23 V. Ideal.

However, there is one “BUT”, no matter how good the stabilizer is, it will still take on the current, even if there is no load connected to it. And in my case, every extra µA will negatively affect the duration of the mouse. I started thinking about how to make this stabilizer turn off automatically when the mouse is not in use. Then I remembered that somewhere on our website there was an article about automatically turning off a multimeter. , the scheme turned out to be as simple as two fingers. A symbiosis of the two schemes was immediately created.

Scheme

I used KP501 as a transistor, if you are going to power the mouse from 3.7 volts or lower, then you need to look in the datasheet for the opening voltage of the field switch: any will NOT WORK. If the opening voltage is below 3.7 V, then the field-effect transistor will either not open at all, or will open slightly and there will be large losses at the under-opened junction of the transistor. I started designing the board, the main criterion was compactness, and only then beauty and aesthetics. I spread the board, etched it, drilled it and started assembling it.

The only thing I want to say is that in order not to kill the transistor during soldering, it is advisable to wrap all its legs with wire (without varnish, electrically conductive). There is a sad experience when the bolt of a field worker was killed by static (if the bolt is heavy enough, a few nF can be done without tying the legs).

Regarding the operating time - the greater the capacitance of the capacitor on the gate-source and the greater the resistance of the resistor parallel to the capacitor, the longer our stabilizer and mouse will be turned on. My time was exactly 1 minute. Just for fun, I checked it several times with a stopwatch - 1 minute exactly)) In my opinion, you can make even the simplest countdown timer this way.

So the board is ready for integration into the mouse. I didn’t even try to solder, everything was done in a hurry, as they say, the main thing is that it works.

Let's disassemble the mouse.

Now we need to add our own button to launch the stabilizer and therefore the mouse itself. I couldn’t think of anything better than gluing improvised copper plates as button contacts. Wires were soldered to them and passed through the holes.

The plastic that presses the buttons on the board has returned to its rightful place. I checked with a multimeter whether there was contact when pressed and began to assemble further. I soldered the auto-of board with a stabilizer, fixed it with glue and sealed it with electrical tape (it must be sealed with blue electrical tape, otherwise it won’t work!).

I placed the battery inside, brought out more wiring for charging (I hope they won’t be needed soon) and put the mouse back together, fortunately there was more space in my mouse than I expected, and everything fit in without difficulty. I didn't even have to change the design of the mouse itself. To launch the mouse, you need to press the left or right button. The mouse will start up for exactly a minute; if you don’t press any buttons for a minute, it turns off.

In the end, it turned out pretty good, if the battery runs out completely and there is nowhere to charge it (there is no time), then you can always insert a regular battery and continue working, this small device will not conflict with the battery.

I measured the current consumption from the battery - 18 mA, in my opinion not very bad, 2 μA is taken over by the stabilizer. The current when the “timer went out” was zero, which made me happy. I hope now the mouse will last for a long time.

During the writing of this article, the mouse behaved stably, without glitches. Perhaps someday I’ll make another induction mat/stand to leave the mouse there for charging. Especially for the Radio Schemes website - Denis.

Discuss the article INSTALLING A BATTERY IN A WIRELESS MOUSE

Computer mouse is an electronic manipulator designed to remotely control the operation of computer programs by activating a cursor that moves across the monitor screen following the movement of the mouse across the surface. For control, at least two keys and a wheel are installed on the mouse body, allowing you to scroll pages in the vertical direction.

Depending on the method of connecting to a computer, mice can be wired (connected using a flexible cable with a PS/2 or USB connector) and wireless.

The photo shows a wireless mouse. As you can see, it does not have a wire to connect to the computer. In wireless mice, information is exchanged using radio frequency. A transceiver is inserted into the USB port of a computer, laptop or tablet, providing two-way communication between the mouse and the device over the air.

Wireless mice have the following disadvantages: - they are more expensive, heavier and require additional attention, since it is necessary to periodically replace dead batteries or charge the batteries.

Optical computer mice are very reliable and can last for many years. But over time they break, and you have to replace the mouse or repair it yourself, since repairing it in a workshop will cost more than the cost of a new one.

Wired mice fail, in the vast majority of cases, due to chafing of the wire at the point where it exits the case, and wireless mice due to the discharge of the battery, accumulator or failure of contact between its terminals or contacts in the container due to their oxidation. Over time, any mouse fails due to wear and tear on the buttons, usually the left one, which is the most frequently used. To repair the mouse, you need to disassemble it.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

In order to disassemble the mouse for repair, you need to unscrew the mounting screws from its bottom side. Usually there is one, but there may be several. In this mouse model, the halves of the body are fastened with one screw.

If the screws are not visually visible, then most likely they are covered with a label or hidden under the thrust bearings. You need to lightly press the label over the entire area. If, in any place, the label bends in the shape of a circle, then most likely there is a screw hidden there. This mouse has a screw hidden under a label that had to be partially peeled off.

In the model, for example, TECH X-701, the fastening is made using two screws, one of which is also hidden under the label. When I tried to peel off the label, it began to tear, so I had to unscrew the screw and make a hole in the label. The place where the label was pierced with a screwdriver in the photo below is indicated by a blue circle.

If the screws could not be found under the labels, then they are definitely sealed with thrust bearings. To gain access, you need to carefully remove the thrust bearings with a knife. Upon completion of the mouse repair, they will need to be glued in place, since without the pads it will slide worse on the mousepad.

After unscrewing the screws, you need to move the halves of the mouse body from the side of the unscrewed screw in different directions and remove the upper part on which the buttons are located.

The mouse's printed circuit board is usually not fixed with screws and is installed with holes on plastic rods protruding from the case. But there are computer mice in which the printed circuit board is screwed to the case with small screws. If, when you try to remove the board, it does not give in, you need to find and unscrew all the screws that secure it. An example of this is the TECH X-701 computer mouse, which is secured to the case with a screw that simultaneously secures the additional printed circuit board of the side buttons.

To remove the board, you need to pry it from below, while simultaneously removing the wheel axis from the bearing retainers of the housing.

When disassembling the mouse, remember how the parts are located relative to each other. Pay special attention to the wheel ratchet spring (if there is one). It is similar to a clothespin spring, only small in size and can easily get lost. If you don’t like how the ratchet works when rotating the wheel, you can slightly bend the tip of the spring that comes into contact with the teeth of the wheel. The pressure will decrease and the wheel will rotate more smoothly.

When disassembling and repairing the mouse, you need to be careful not to let your hands touch the surfaces of the optical prism and other optical elements. If you accidentally touch it and traces of sweat and grease remain on the surface, you must remove them with a cloth soaked in a special composition for wiping optical parts. Under no circumstances should any solvents be used for cleaning. If you don’t have a special napkin at hand, simply wipe off any traces of dirt with a soft, clean cloth.

Wireless mouse repair

The main reason for the complete inoperability of wireless mice is dead batteries (accumulators) or poor contact of their terminals with the electrical circuit of the mouse. Since the lasers of many mouse models operate in the light range, to determine the condition of the batteries, just turn on the mouse and look at it from below. If a red glow is emitted, the batteries are good. Otherwise, repairs must begin with checking the batteries and the quality of their contact with the electrical circuit of the mouse.

In order to get to the batteries, you need, for example, like in this mouse, to press the “Open” button, after which the battery compartment cover will release and it will open.

If the mouse's laser operates in an invisible zone, then you can only check the condition of the power supply by replacing or measuring the voltage at the battery terminals.

In a mouse that has been in use for a long time, the contacts on both the battery terminals and the contacts in the mouse may oxidize. In this case, they need to be inspected and, if oxides are found, remove them with a rag soaked in alcohol or simply wipe thoroughly until shiny. It is not advisable to remove oxide from the mouse contacts with sandpaper, since the thin protective galvanic coating will be removed from them.

Like a wired mouse
repair a frayed wire

If, when working with the mouse, the cursor begins to move spontaneously, jump to any place on the monitor screen, or freeze, then we can say with greater certainty that the integrity of the wire at the point where it exits the housing has been compromised. It’s easy to check, you need to press the wire against the body and if the functionality is temporarily restored, then it’s definitely a problem with the wire.

If, upon inspection of the wire at the point where it exits the computer mouse body, physical damage is detected, then the reason for the malfunction is obvious. Here is an example of such damage. The photo shows that the double outer shell of the wire is damaged, and some of the tinsel-type conductors are frayed.

If you have soldering skills with a soldering iron, it is not difficult to repair a computer mouse with a frayed wire, doubling its service life. The repair consists of removing the damaged section of the wire and sealing the newly prepared ends of the surviving part of the conductors into the printed circuit board.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by soldering

The wire connecting the computer mouse to the connector comes in two types - made of ordinary thin stranded copper wire and tinsel-type wire. Tinsel type wire is more elastic, therefore it has high bending resistance and lasts longer.

Entering the mouse body, the wire runs along and connects to the printed circuit board. There are two types of connections: a detachable connection or a press-fit connection into a block that is soldered into the board. The photo shows a block soldered from a printed circuit board with conductors pressed into it.

Regardless of the method of connecting the wires to the mouse’s printed circuit board, in order to know how to solder during repairs, you need to photograph or sketch what color wire is connected to which contact. Then unsolder the connector from the board (it’s better not to disconnect it, it’s easier to unsolder) or the block. There is no international standard for the color scheme of mouse wires, and each manufacturer chooses the wire color at its own discretion. I had to repair many computer mice and everywhere the wires from the same connector pins came in different colors. Obviously, this is due to the fact that the mouse is considered a consumable item, and manufacturers do not provide for repairs after the end of the warranty period.

After desoldering the old wires from the mouse circuit board, you need to clear the solder holes to seal the new wires. This job can be easily done with a toothpick or a sharpened match. It is enough to heat the solder at the location of the hole on the side of the printed conductors of the board and insert the tip of a toothpick into it, remove the soldering iron, and when the solder hardens, remove the toothpick. The hole will be free for installing a conductor into it.

To prepare the wires for installation, it is necessary to cut off a 15-20 mm long piece of wire coming out of the mouse body that has become unusable. Remove the insulation from the wires and tin the ends of the conductors with solder. You need to tin the wires by placing them on a wooden stand, while rotating them in one direction so that the tinned ends of the wires are round in shape. Otherwise, it will be impossible to insert them into the holes on the printed circuit board.

Insert wires into the printed circuit board of the mouse in accordance with the sketched color scheme and solder them with a soldering iron.

Wires of the tinsel type cannot be tinned using ordinary rosin flux, since the tinsel ribbon conductors are covered with a layer of insulating varnish. Acid flux cannot be used as it will saturate the inner strand of the tinsel wire and eventually destroy the conductors. The best flux in this case is an aspirin tablet.

All that remains is to insert the tinned ends of the wires into the holes of the printed circuit board and solder them with solder.

Sometimes there are mice in which the printed circuit board is double-sided with holes for wires of very small diameter, and it is very difficult to free them from solder. In this case, you can simply solder the conductors to the contact pads. Since physical stress is not applied to the wires when the mouse is operating, the connection is quite reliable.

Now you can install the printed circuit board into the base of the case and secure it with a screw, lay the wire and close it with the top cover. When installing a cover with buttons, you need to make sure that the wire does not get under the pushers of the buttons, between the mating protrusions of the housing and does not touch other moving parts. Before assembling the mouse, it is imperative to remove dust and hairs, which over a long period of use quite a lot gets stuffed through the gap between the wheel and the body. The repair is completed and the computer mouse is ready for use again.

How to repair a frayed mouse wire by twisting it

It’s safer than soldering to repair a wire, but not everyone knows how to solder, and even if they do, they don’t always have a soldering iron at hand. You can successfully restore the operation of the mouse without a soldering iron by twisting the wires. The mouse is disassembled and a section of the frayed wire is cut out.

The conductors are carefully removed from the cut wire sheath. The wire sheath is not cut, it will still serve.

The length of the conductors is adjusted so that when twisting, the twisting points are shifted relative to each other by 8 mm and the ends of the conductors are stripped of insulation to a length of 5-8 mm.

The ends of conductors of the same color are twisted tightly together.

The resulting twists are bent along the conductors, and the conductors are tucked into one of the previously cut wire sheaths. When refueling, you need to pay attention so that the twists do not touch each other.

A couple of turns of insulation will prevent the twists from accidentally touching the parts on the mouse board and will give the connection sufficient mechanical strength.

All that remains is to insert the wire connector into the mating part on the mouse’s printed circuit board and lay the wire in the case.

Close the top cover, tighten the screws and you can start working on the computer. The wire repaired in this way will last another period. Sometimes the system unit is installed far from the workplace, and the mouse wire is not long enough to work without tension. Using the technologies proposed above, you can successfully extend the wire to the required length by taking the wire from an old mouse. Since there is no single color standard for wires, you must first determine by calling which color wire is connected to which number in the connector.

To increase the service life of the mouse, it is necessary to ensure that the wire at the point where it exits the mouse body does not bend too much when manipulating it.

If the mouse wheel becomes difficult to rotate

Sometimes when you rotate the mouse wheel, the scrolling of pages occurs jerkily or does not move to one side. One of the reasons is the ingress of dust and hairs between the photo sensor and the photodetector of the wheel optocoupler. Dirt enters the mouse body through the gap between its body and the wheel and sticks to the wheel axles, as they are coated with lubricant to improve gliding.

After removing the dust and hairs, the functionality of the mouse wheel was restored.

Mouse button repair

If when you press the left or right mouse button the reaction does not always occur or does not occur at all, then there may be two reasons. The button is worn out at the point of contact with the microswitch pusher or its failure. In order to understand the reason, it is enough to disassemble the mouse and inspect the place of the button in contact with the pusher. If there is a millimeter deepening, then perhaps this is the reason.

When you press your finger on the pusher of a working button, you should hear a clear and loud click. If the sound is dull, then it may be the switch. To check, you need to connect the mouse with the top half removed to a working computer and press the microswitch pushers with your finger. If it works normally, then it will be enough to eliminate the wear on the button in any available way, for example, by melting the plastic or a drop of epoxy resin. If the problem is with the microswitch, you will have to replace it.

The vast majority of mice use microswitches of standard sizes. The microswitch is designed and operates as follows. Three brass plates of complex configuration are pressed into the plastic case, which end with pins for sealing into a printed circuit board. The left (pictured) plate is the midpoint of the switch. An additional thin brass plate with a U-shaped hole is fixed on it in a spacer.

The left side of the thin brass plate engages the protrusion on the left side of the left contact plate, and the right, curved arc, engages the right protrusion of the left contact plate. The thin flat plate is installed in such a way that its right end always pushes up, and it contacts the right thick plate, which has an L-shape.

When you press the button, the button pusher transmits force to a thin plate, it moves down, moves away from the upper contact and comes into contact with the lower one, the terminal of which is located in the middle of the button. After the pressure ceases, the thin plate returns to its upper original position and again connects the outer contacts of the microswitch. Thus, when the button is not pressed, the outer contacts coming out from the bottom of the button are connected to each other, and when pressed, the left and middle ones are connected to each other.

Over time, the metal accumulates fatigue, the arc-shaped spring is deformed and partially loses its springing properties. This is where the button stops working. You can try to repair the microswitch by disassembling it, removing the arcuate spring and straightening it a little. But having a supply of old mice, I didn’t have to resort to such repairs. Although the buttons on keyboards were repaired many times at the dawn of computers, each button in them worked on the same principle as microswitches in mice.

Therefore, if you have an old ball-type one lying around, it would be more advisable to remove the microswitch from it to replace the failed one. It is best to solder the one that is installed under the wheel. It is rarely used and is generally in good working order.

If there is no wheel, then take the microswitch of the right button. Before unsoldering the microswitch, pay attention to how it is installed. In microswitches, the pins are located symmetrically and it is easy to make mistakes during installation. If there is no old mouse, then it is permissible to swap the microswitches in the mouse being repaired, from under the left button to the one installed under the wheel. And if the situation is completely hopeless, then you will have to start repairing the microswitch.

Wireless devices are becoming more and more popular among users, and specifically wireless mice. They are most often seen among laptop owners, although in some cases they can also be seen among desktop computer users. Most buyers of wireless mice, after unpacking, wonder: where to insert the batteries?

Instructions