The point is in the reel: how the ignition coil is arranged and how it works. Choosing the optimal ignition coil What we came up with

The ignition coil is a very important element, the main task of which is to convert the voltage from low voltage to high voltage. This voltage comes directly from the battery or alternator. The coil of a contact ignition system is quite different from a similar element in a non-contact system.

Contact ignition coil

In a contact ignition system, the coil consists of several important elements: a core, primary and secondary windings, a cardboard tube, an interrupter and an additional resistor. A feature of the primary winding compared to the secondary is a smaller number of turns of copper wire (up to 400). In the secondary winding of the coil, their number can reach 25 thousand, but their diameter is several times smaller. All copper wires in the ignition coil are well insulated. The core of the coil reduces the formation of eddy currents, it consists of strips of transformer steel, which are also well insulated from each other. Bottom part core is installed in a special porcelain insulator. Now there is no need to list the principle of operation of the coil in detail, it is enough just to mention that in the contact system such an element (voltage converter) is of key importance.

Contactless ignition coil

In a contactless ignition system, the coil performs exactly the same functions. And the difference is manifested only in the direct structure of the element that converts the voltage. It is also worth noting that the electronic switch interrupts the power supply circuit of the primary coil. As for the ignition system itself, the non-contact one is much better in many ways: the ability to start and operate the engine at low temperatures, there is no violation of the uniform distribution of the spark in the cylinders, and there is no vibration. All these advantages are provided by the coil itself in a non-contact ignition system.

Coil Comparison

When it comes to the signs of difference between the coil of a contact ignition system and a non-contact one, everyone immediately pays attention to the marking. Indeed, from it you can immediately find out for which system the coil is used. However, we are interested in the external and technical differences of the coils, so we will present the differences in these parameters:

• The coil in the contact ignition system has large quantity turns in the primary winding. This change directly affects the resistance and the amount of current flowing. In addition, limiting the current on the contacts is related to safety (so that the contacts do not burn).
• The contacts of the coil breaker in the contactless ignition system do not get dirty or burn. This reliability allows you to get one important advantage: setting the ignition timing does not take much time.
• The coil in a contactless ignition system is more powerful and more reliable. This advantage is directly related to the fact that the most contactless ignition system is a more reliable option. Therefore, in such a system, the coil gives more engine power.

Findings site

1. They have different markings indicating the difference between the two coils.
2. In the contact system, the coil has a greater number of turns.
3. The contacts of the coil breaker of the non-contact system are more reliable.
4. The coil itself in the contactless ignition system gives more power.

The ignition system of an automobile gasoline engine is designed to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. To do this, the property of high voltage is used to create an electrical breakdown of the air gap of the spark plug. Since the onboard voltage of the car is in the vast majority of cases 12 V, ignition coils have been developed to generate high voltage pulses. All of them, without exception, work on the same principle, but which ignition coil to choose for a particular type of engine depends on several factors.

Ignition coil device

A high-voltage transformer, known among motorists as an ignition coil, is made in the classical way - two windings (high-voltage and low-voltage) and a metal core made of special transformer steel.

The reliability of the ignition coil directly depends on the quality of the windings, since the low-voltage one operates at high current values, and the high-voltage one is subject to voltage breakdowns between its own turns. To eliminate interturn breakdowns and disruption of wire insulation due to vibration, the coil windings are impregnated with special compounds.

Types of ignition coils

Historically, automobile engines were equipped with one ignition coil, and the voltage supply to the necessary candle was organized by a contact-distribution method. This design revealed many shortcomings and was soon replaced by a more complex one, when several coils were placed in one housing, each of which was responsible for generating high voltage for two candles at once. Nowadays, most new powerplants have individual ignition coils for each cylinder and mounted directly on the spark plug.

On the one hand, the cost of the ignition system has increased, since instead of one coil, several are installed on the engine at once. On the other hand, there is no need for long high-voltage wires and the reliability of the system as a whole increases, since the failure of one coil leads to the failure of only one cylinder, and not two or all at once.

Which ignition coil to choose for a car

Most automakers design their ignition coils for a specific powerplant model. As a rule, coils are not interchangeable in terms of design and electrical characteristics. Installing the wrong coil can result in the following:

• lack of a normal spark on the spark plug;
• failure of the coil control circuit;
• failure of the coil itself.

Including the ignition coil? Use the system electronic search by car brand or its VIN code.. The search result can be an original spare part, or its full analogue of a third-party manufacturer. Do not bother going to the store, you can order and receive in the most convenient way!

For more than half a century of evolution of carburetor gasoline engines with a contact ignition system, the coil (or, as it was often called by drivers of past years, the “reel”) has practically not changed its design and appearance, representing a high-voltage transformer in a metal sealed glass filled with transformer oil to improve insulation between turns of windings and cooling.

An integral partner of the coil was a distributor - a low voltage mechanical switch and a high voltage distributor. The spark should have appeared in the respective cylinders at the end of the compression stroke of the air-fuel mixture - strictly at a certain moment. The distributor carried out both the generation of a spark, and its synchronization with the cycles of the engine, and distribution by candles.

The classic oil-filled ignition coil - "reel" (which in French meant "coil") - was extremely reliable. It was protected from mechanical influences by the steel glass of the body, from overheating - by effective heat removal through the oil filling the glass. However, according to the little-censored rhyme in the original version, “It was not about the reel - the idiot was sitting in the cab ...”, it turns out that a reliable reel sometimes failed, even if the driver was not such an idiot ...

If you look at the diagram of the contact ignition system, you can find that the muffled motor could stop in any position of the crankshaft, both with the contacts of the low-voltage breaker in the distributor closed, and with open ones. If, during the previous shutdown, the engine stopped in the crankshaft position, in which the distributor cam closed the contacts of the breaker that supplied low voltage to the primary winding of the ignition coil, then when the driver, for some reason, turned on the ignition without starting the engine, and left the key in this position for a long time, the primary winding of the coil could overheat and burn out ... For it began to pass through it D.C. at 8-10 amperes instead of intermittent pulse.

Officially, the coil of the classic oil-filled type is not repairable: after the winding burned out, it was sent to the scrap. However, once upon a time at car depots, electricians managed to repair reels - they flared the case, drained the oil, rewound the windings and reassembled ... Yes, there were times!

And only after the mass introduction of contactless ignition, in which the distributor contacts were replaced by electronic switches, the problem of coil combustion almost disappeared. Most switches have automatic shutdown current through the ignition coil with the ignition on, but the engine not running. In other words, after the ignition was turned on, a small time interval began to count, and if the driver did not start the engine during this time, the switch automatically turned off, protecting both the coil and itself from overheating.

dry coils

The next stage in the development of the classic ignition coil was the rejection of the oil-filled housing. "Wet" coils were replaced by "dry". Structurally, it was practically the same coil, but without a metal case and oil, covered on top with a layer of epoxy compound to protect it from dust and moisture. She worked together with the same distributor, and often on sale one could find both old “wet” coils and new “dry” coils for the same car model. They were completely interchangeable, even the “ears” of the mounts matched.

For the average car owner, there were essentially no advantages or disadvantages in changing the technology from wet to dry. If the latter, of course, was made with high quality. "Profit" was received only by manufacturers, since it is somewhat easier and cheaper to make a "dry" coil. However, if the "dry" coils of foreign car manufacturers were initially thought out and manufactured quite carefully and served almost as long as the "wet" ones, the Soviet and Russian "dry" coils gained notoriety, because they had a lot of quality problems and failed quite often without any reason.

One way or another, today “wet” ignition coils have completely given way to “dry”, and the quality of the latter, even of domestic production, is practically not satisfactory.

There were also hybrid coils: an ordinary “dry” coil and a conventional contactless ignition switch were sometimes combined into a single module. Such designs were found, for example, on single-injection Fords, Audis and a number of others. On the one hand, it looked to some extent technologically advanced, on the other hand, reliability decreased and the price increased. After all, two fairly heating nodes were combined into one, while individually they cooled better, and if one or another failed, the replacement was cheaper ...

Oh yes, even in the piggy bank of specific hybrids: on old Toyotas, there was often a variant of a coil integrated directly into the distributor of the distributor! It was integrated, of course, not tightly, and in the event of a failure, the “reel” could be easily removed and purchased separately.

Ignition module - failure of the distributor

A noticeable evolution in the coil world occurred during the development of injection motors. The first injectors included a “partial distributor” - the low-voltage circuit of the coil was already switched by the electronic engine control unit, but the classic runner distributor, driven by the camshaft, was still distributing the spark through the cylinders. It became possible to completely abandon this mechanical unit by using a combined coil, in the common body of which individual coils were hidden in an amount corresponding to the number of cylinders. Such nodes began to be called "ignition modules".

The electronic engine control unit (ECU) contained 4 transistor key, which alternately applied 12 volts to the primary windings of all four coils of the ignition module, and they, in turn, sent a high-voltage spark pulse each to their own candle. Simplified versions of combined coils are even more common, more technologically advanced and cheaper to manufacture. In them, in one housing of the ignition module of a four-cylinder engine, not four coils are placed, but two, but working, nevertheless, for four candles. In such a scheme, a spark is supplied to the candles in pairs - that is, it comes to one candle from a pair at the moment necessary to ignite the mixture, and to the other - idle, at the moment the exhaust gases are released from this cylinder.

The next stage in the development of combined coils was the transfer of electronic switching keys (transistors) from the engine control unit to the ignition module housing. The removal of powerful and heating transistors “to the wild” improved the temperature regime of the computer, and in the event of the failure of any electronic switch key, it was enough to replace the coil, and not change or solder the complex and expensive control unit. In which immobilizer passwords, individual for each car, and similar information are often registered.

Each cylinder - on the coil!

Another typical ignition solution for modern gasoline cars, which exists in parallel with modular coils, is individual coils for each cylinder, which are installed in the spark plug well and contact the spark plug directly, without a high-voltage wire.

The first "personal coils" were just coils, but then switching electronics moved into them - just as it happened with ignition modules. Of the advantages of this form factor is the rejection of high-voltage wires, as well as the ability to replace only one coil, rather than the entire module, if it fails.

True, it is worth saying that in this format (coils without high-voltage wires mounted on a candle) there are also coils in the form of a single block, united by a common base. Such, for example, like to use GM and PSA. This is a truly nightmarish technical solution: the coils seem to be separate, but if one “bobbin” fails, you have to change the assembly of a large and very expensive unit ...

What have we come to?

The classic oil-filled bobbin was one of the most reliable and indestructible units in carbureted and early injection cars. Sudden failure of it was considered a rarity. True, its reliability, unfortunately, was "compensated" by an integral partner - a distributor, and later - an electronic switch (the latter, however, only applied to domestic products). The “dry” coils that replaced the “oil” coils were comparable in terms of reliability, but still failed somewhat more often for no apparent reason.

Injection evolution forced to get rid of the distributor. This is how various designs appeared that did not need a mechanical high-voltage distributor - modules and individual coils according to the number of cylinders. The reliability of such structures has decreased even more due to the complication and miniaturization of their "offal", as well as the extremely difficult conditions of their work. After several years of operation with constant heating from the engine on which the coils were mounted, cracks formed on the protective layer of the compound, through which moisture and oil entered the high-voltage winding, causing breakdowns inside the windings and misfiring. With individual coils that are installed in candle wells, working conditions are even more hellish. Also, gentle modern coils do not like washing the engine compartment and the increased gap in the electrodes of the spark plugs, which is formed as a result of the long-term operation of the latter. The spark is always looking for the shortest path, and often finds it inside the winding of the bobbin.

As a result, today the most reliable and correct design of the existing and used ones can be called an ignition module with built-in switching electronics, mounted on an engine with an air gap and connected to the spark plugs by high-voltage wires. Separate coils installed in the candle wells of the head of the block are less reliable, and, from my point of view, the solution in the form of combined coils on a single ramp is completely unsuccessful.

An ignition coil, often referred to as a bobbin, is an electrical step-up transformer that produces a high-voltage electrical pulse. The impulse is converted into a spark at the spark plug electrodes and ignites the combustible mixture in the cylinder. The quality of the spark and the timeliness of its formation ensures the reliability of the engine.

Before purchasing a new reel, try to find out its reliability, according to the reviews of the owners. Take an interest in the mileage that the device has withstood, whether the engine response and fuel consumption have changed, maximum speed and CO exhaust.

The design of the coil must provide:

• reliable insulation between windings and turns;
• high electrical resistance between the body and the mass;
• body strength, especially plastic parts;
• absence of microcracks;
• reliability of electrical contacts and connections.

The quality bobbin can withstand temperatures up to 180°C.

Types of ignition coils

The ignition coils provide spark to all the spark plugs in turn by means of switchgears. Switched devices include the B-116 ignition coil and its varieties:

• B-114;
• B-115;
• B-117.

Externally, the devices are similar, but have different resistances and inductances of the primary and secondary windings and are designed for use in various ignition systems. For example, B-114 is used in contact systems, and B-116 with non-contact transistor distributors. Both coils will work in circuits not intended for them, but will malfunction and not for long.

B-114 and B-117 are similar in structure, but have different terminal designations and winding data. In some cases, their mutual replacement can give positive result, but the ignition setting standard method won't fit. You have to act on a whim.

The B-114 coil has a three times higher transformation ratio than the others. Therefore, it is advisable to use B-114 in powerful engines running on low-octane fuel, for example:

• ZIL 130, 131;
• GAZ-53, 66, 3102;
• KAVZ.

Characteristics of Popular Ignition Coils

Reels may differ in some minor nuances that affect the coherence of the engine. For example, the B-115V bobbin can be replaced with B-117A. According to the characteristics of the B-115V and B-117A, they are almost identical. But the spark discharge current of the B-115V is more powerful - 38 mA, while the B-117A has only 30 mA. A powerful spark is better than a weak one, and replacing B-115V with B-117A does not lead to any negative consequences. But owners of cars with tachometers will find that the readings of the device do not match the actual ones. This is due to the lack of an additional resistor in the 117 model. That is, the replacement of almost identical B-115V devices with B-117A, or vice versa, is not always correct.

If your car has a B116 ignition coil, then you should know that they are available in two versions. For contact and non-contact systems. Modifications 03, 04 for contactless.

In modern cars, individual coils are more often used, for each candle separately. Individual step-up transformers for each spark plug greatly simplify the ignition system, eliminating electrical circuit distribution module

The most popular manufacturers of such devices are:

• German company Bosch;
• Taiwanese Dynatec;
• Italian

But if the first company, Bosch, can be considered the general developer of devices, then the second ones Dynatec and ERA make clones of them, but at a sufficiently high technical level and in reliability they are almost as good as the original, despite more low price.

Classic ignition coil device

All cars made before the 80s had a single ignition coil, which is a step-up transformer.

Main elements of the device: 1. central (high-voltage terminal), protected by a cover; 2. plastic cover; 3. secondary winding; 4. primary winding; 5. magnetic core; 6. iron core; 7. case.

A 12 V pulse is applied to the primary winding, which is converted into a high-voltage discharge with a voltage of 20-30 kilovolts at the electrodes of the candles. High-voltage voltage pulses are applied to the candles alternately using a contact or electronic distributor.

Individual coil device

Individual bobbins are fundamentally no different from classic ones, but they are more reliable, if only because they are at least four times less likely to participate in sparking, which greatly increases their resource.

In addition, a diode is often installed in individual spools to cut off the reverse high voltage.

Such coils heat up much less, are reliable and easily adjustable. central processing unit for achievement optimal performance engine at different loads.

Features of replacing automotive ignition coils

For example, if the BYD F3 ignition coil for the 4G18 engine has failed, then a couple of options can be chosen as a replacement:

• supplied by the manufacturer - BOSCH, F01R00A010;
• similar, serial number 880317A, manufactured by ERA.

Interestingly, Dynatec does not manufacture ignition devices for such engines, you can not look.

Given that, according to car service workers, the Italian ERA coil is as reliable as the Bosch ignition coil, but much cheaper, it makes absolutely no sense to spend extra money on the original. Nevertheless, the German quality of BOSCH, even in the Chinese version, is much more convincing than the high-quality cover versions of the Italian company ERA.

However, it should be noted that BOSCH, being a generator original ideas, regularly upgrades its products, which is not the case with companies like ERA that produce copies.

But, even when purchasing Bosch spare parts, carefully check the product number. Within the same series, there may be slight differences in the shape of the fasteners or the thickness and diameter of the gaskets, which can complicate the installation of the device. It is more difficult to make a mistake with ERA spare parts, the range of their products is much more modest than that of BOSCH.

If you are the owner of a car from the Volga plant, and somehow the miracle of the Soviet automobile industry, a reel produced by SOATE (Stary Oskol), works for you, then feel free to change it to an analogue of Dynatec. AvtoVAZ recommended such a replacement back in 2012, and did it for free at branded service stations. But it is better to replace the module with a similar one manufactured by BOSCH.

Features of choosing motorcycle ignition coils

Step-up transformers for sparking are equipped not only with automotive internal combustion engines, they are present in:

• boat motors;
• mopeds and motorcycles;
• lawn mowers;
• chainsaws;
• electrical generators.

If you are choosing an ignition coil for a Verkhovyna moped, the B-300 was usually installed in it, then please note that a device with a similar name B-300B has fewer turns in the field winding. Therefore, replacing the B-300 with the B-300B is impossible. Usually the engine won't even start. But if the B-300 is replaced with a similar device from the IZH motorcycle, the motor will work fine.

B-51 reels were used in Soviet motor scooters of the Ant and Tourist types. From automotive devices, it differs in that not 12, but 6 volts are supplied to the primary winding. With its device, the B-51 is no different from other motorcycle coils. Many owners of scooters with B-51 coils change them to 12-volt automobile ones. The transformation ratio is enough to form a high-quality spark, no worse than from the B-51.

Choosing a chainsaw coil

If you are the owner of the popular Taiwanese chainsaw Stihl: MS170, MS180, 017 or 018 and are actively working with it, then you may have already encountered the problem of magneto failure. Stihl completes these chainsaws with the same coils CH000013-5. Stihl 180 coils have proven to be quite reliable devices, so you should not replace Stihl 180 with an analogue, except in extreme cases. Practice has shown that analogues of bobbins from 180 unknown manufacturers do not last even two working weeks. At the same time, the original models last for more than one year, even with intensive use. Also, the 180th coils serve well on other Chinese chainsaws.

When purchasing an ignition coil, you should first of all pay attention to its characteristics, take into account the impact of their discrepancy on engine operation and choose a product from well-known brands. If you have chosen an analogue, then be prepared for the fact that you will have to rebuild some parameters of the ignition system.

An automotive ignition coil is a small piece of metal that is used to ignite the fuel spark plug in engines. The resource of the coils is relatively small, since they have to work at high voltages and in especially aggressive conditions.

What are ignition coils for?

In gasoline and gas engines, the fuel mixture must be ignited. Electrical devices such as spark plugs are best suited to ignite. However, the operating voltage in them reaches several tens of thousands of volts. This is where the coil is needed, because it can turn 12 volts of current from the battery into even 50 thousand volts. In this case, the coil, despite its apparent simplicity, is seriously affected by external influences. For this reason, it is changed on average every 70 thousand kilometers.

More about the device

Many electrical devices are based on the use of the law of self-induction. The notorious ignition coil consists of the following elements:

• The outer layer, she primary winding, made of thick copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 millimeters. Number of turns: 250-400 pieces;
• The inner layer, she secondary winding, from a thin copper wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. Number of turns: 19-25 thousand pieces;
• The core is made of special transformer steel, which is an excellent available ferromagnet.

Switching devices are also distinguished separately, that is, high and low voltage terminals. The latter are connected to the battery and the metal part of the car, almost always the frame.

It works like this: the current from the selected source (in a car it is a generator or a battery) initially acts in the primary winding, creating electromagnetic field. When the circuit is opened, the effect of self-induction is observed: in the secondary winding, when the current strength changes (i.e., it decreases to zero), an electromotive force pulse is induced. To put it unscientifically, the secondary winding "resists" a sharp change in the current strength in the primary winding. In this case, the EMF value depends on the number of turns and the density of their winding. As a result, from a few volts, you can get tens of thousands of volts, which are in demand by the ignition system.

Core make it layered - so it heats up less. The heated core introduces excessive non-linearity into the system, and due to which it is impossible to achieve a consistently high value of the inductance of the entire coil. If you get rid of the core, the inductance will be too small.

In order to avoid trouble, the coil is equipped additional resistances(allows to avoid overheating) and capacitors (soften power surges, preventing the formation of sparks), isolate each layer(does not allow the circuit to close). Note that the coil partly compensates for the shortcomings of high-voltage wires.

Types of ignition systems

Depending on how the fuel mixture is ignited, the following systems are distinguished:

• Distribution. One coil took over all the work of working with several cylinders. The system is outdated and not very reliable, today it is found only in old cars;
• "Twin Spark". The high voltage from one coil powers two spark plugs that work with synchronously moving pistons. In this case, the energy provides a spark in one candle, and is wasted in the other. A distinction is made between DIS systems and the somewhat modernized DIS-COP;
• Individual. The coil is mounted directly on the spark plug. There is no need for high-voltage wires. Otherwise called the COP system.

So far, the COP system is not very common, but the leading automakers prefer it: despite the apparent complexity, end system ignition includes only a few elements that must work in accordance with the movement of the pistons in the cylinders. With it, drivers win in reliability, repair costs and, oddly enough, appearance- there is no more sagging wiring in the engine compartment.

Dealing with replacement times

Problems with the ignition coil largely duplicate those of spark plugs. Namely:

• The consumption of gasoline has increased;
• The engine refuses to work;
• The power has dropped;
• Exhaust gases have become more "dirty";
• The motor began to "troit";
• There was a suspicious vibration of the unit;
• It became hard to start.

In this case, as we wrote above, the life of the coils can decrease over a whole a number of reasons: ingress of water, oil vapors and car chemicals, overheating. Any coils instantly fail due to insulation breakdown. Yes, and the candles themselves can load them heavily, as a result of which the coil burns out. Particularly vulnerable are individual systems that operate at extreme temperatures and require additional protection.

About the expensive manufacturing process

That large transformers and windings for electric motors, that small car coils cost decent money. Ultimately, it makes no sense to compare automotive electrics with those at the station, but both are very demanding on materials and production technologies.

Since the secondary winding is made up of small wire, correct winding cannot be a simple matter: a wire with a thickness of 0.1 mm must lie flat, without the slightest distortion. If you see even a small gap in the coil, you can be sure that the whole product will start to warm up. With overheating, the insulation will fail.

Extremely important pressing wires. When the engine is running, the car starts to vibrate, which means that the wiring of small wires inside the coils plays a role. If they hang freely, there is a risk of a short circuit.

High demands are placed on materials. The coil housing must withstand even high mechanical loads. Today, the body is made of impact-resistant ABS plastic. Insulating materials in modern coils can serve even in chemically aggressive environments.

Extending the life of ignition coils

Manufacturers put coils in cases filled with epoxy resin, and most often with transformer oil. This is done to prevent the device from overheating. So it is always on the conscience of the car owner to check the part for mechanical damage.

Coils depend on the quality of the wiring. High voltage wires must be kept clean. The same applies to terminals that are covered with a layer of oxide and dirt.

Do not forget follow the candles. They are changed relatively rarely, but the case of using the same candles throughout the entire cycle of using a car from purchase to scrapping is quite rare - faulty candles need to be changed as soon as possible, otherwise they will “kill” the coils.

Alas, the ignition coils are not repairable. The turns in them are packed so tightly that in the event of a breakdown of the insulation, it will not be possible to somehow help the situation. In this case, you need to change the entire device. The same applies to cases of overheating.

Making the right choice

It is best to choose the original, guided by the VIN code of the car. Since the ignition coil is located somewhere in the middle of the ignition circuit, it reacts sharply to any deviations from the characteristics specified by the vehicle manufacturer. For example, if a candle requires more energy than the coil can provide, the latter will simply burn out. You can get another "bonus": if the claim spark plug gap too large, high voltage will try to find a workaround, that is, it will break through the insulation.

You can also go to the dealer and provide them with the following information:

• car engine;
• Model;
• Year of issue;
• Car body type.

It will pick up the coil even if it has been installed non-standard equipment. Or you can simply remove the coil and ask the dealer to pick up the same or identical analogue.

Brand Tour

A significant number of OEM coils are actually produced by the companies that will be listed. This does not mean that it is pointless to take the original. Rather, you win in time, almost immediately picking up the spare part you need, installing it and getting back on the road.

Of the expensive goods, you should pay attention to those that are in boxes with names. following firms: Valeo (France), Beru (Germany), Magneti Marelli (Italy). The quality of the coils of these companies is very high, but the price, as they say, bites.

Coils from these companies are very popular: Bosch (Germany), NGK (Japan), Tesla (Czech Republic).

Coils from the Czech company Profit, as well as the notorious Danish JP Group, can become a budget solution. You will need to change them more often. expensive devices, but even in this case, their purchase will be profitable.

Conclusion

Knowing how to choose the right ignition coils will always be useful to you. First of all, this device fails quite often. Many motorists confuse coil malfunctions with those of spark plugs or high-voltage wires. Secondly, understanding the specifics of manufacturing coils and their work will help you not only recognize a fake, but also choose the right adjacent nodes, such as the candles and wires mentioned. As a rule, ignition coils are not worth big money, however, if you have a new car with an individual ignition system, the replacement will cost a pretty penny. In case of replacement, we advise you to take coils from Valeo, Beru (friends-motorists will definitely recommend them to you) or, if finances are limited, products from Profit and the Danish JP Group. Don't forget also that full diagnostics ignition systems can only be done by the masters at the service station.