Dashboard tuning. Production of dashboards We change the dashboard for a new one

New dashboard lighting in a classic folk car VAZ gives the interior sophistication and a sense of comfort. Installing neon or even LED illumination on a car requires a lot of money for such an expensive pleasure. The best way to solve the problem is to replace the dashboard backlight on their own. The process of replacing the backlight in your garage, firstly, is not complicated, and secondly, it requires less cash. One of the options for tuning your car is a special overlay on the dashboard, but this will cost a lot. It would be better if you do the tuning of the instrument panel on your own.

To bring the matter to the end, you need to be patient, as well as tools and necessary materials. The first step in creating perfection is disassembling the dashboard. To do this, you need to remove the protective glass of the devices. The next step is to remove the arrows from the instruments. In order not to damage the arrows made of fragile material, before removing the arrow with a screwdriver, put several layers of cardboard under the opposite end of the plastic. Using a little force, gently remove the arrow from the axis. Similar actions must be done with the remaining arrows.

The dashboard underlay is also very easy to remove. To remove it, you need any clerical knife. The tip of the knife is inserted between the panel and the substrate, and then we cut through the layer of sealant along the perimeter of the substrate. After removal protective glass substrates, we proceed to further work on tuning the panel.

On the surface of the dashboard, under the substrate, there is a light filter, which evenly distributes the illumination over the entire area of ​​the panel. This light filter must be removed using a clerical knife, carefully scraping off the light-conducting layer.

A light filter is a special paint that is applied to the back side of the dashboard substrate and provides color illumination to numbers and other information signaling devices. After rough processing of the substrate, the places where the light filter was applied must be treated with acetone or alcohol. The reagent will remove the remaining paint, as well as degrease the surface and prepare it for the next processing process.

At the next stage of work, you will need to change the backlight of the dashboard. First you need to say so - “fill your hand” and change the backlight of the odometer. An odometer is a measure of the distance traveled by a car, measured in kilometers or miles. In order to install a new odometer backlight, you must first remove the odometer screen, remove the blue protective film, remove the old backlight bulb and replace it with a new LED. For the new dashboard lighting, you can use a multi-color LED, which has the ability to change colors at the request of the user. The LED is connected to the standard bulb holder, then we put the odometer screen in its place.

The next step is to completely replace the dashboard lights. We attach new LEDs to the instrument panel frame. The multi-color LEDs that we install in this case are sold complete with a color switch. If your budget is limited, you can ditch the use of multi-color LEDs in favor of conventional ones. We install the LEDs on the seats and connect them with the standard contact of the previous dashboard backlight.

The arrows of the speedometer and tachometer must be able to change the backlight. Carrying out such an operation will require the removal of old paint from the arrow. In order for the paint to be easily removed, you must first remove it from the surface with a clerical knife, and then walk the surface with acetone or technical alcohol. When the arrow is clean of paint, it can be painted with white nail polish, or something else. The main thing in this process is that the arrow is exactly white, since only White color can transmit the entire range of LEDs.

If you have installed a multi-color LED backlight on the VAZ car panel, you need to install a color switch in order to be able to select the color of the dashboard backlight. The switch is recommended to be installed in the lower right corner of the dashboard. When all the work has already been done, you can proceed to the final assembly of the finished panel.

The first step is to start by installing the substrate. We apply a layer of sealant to the back side of the substrate so that it holds firmly to the base. Next, we install the arrows of the devices in their places and close the structure with a protective glass.

How to modify the design of the dashboard with your own hands? A little time, work, and you're done! Consider how such tuning can be done on the example of a Hyundai Accent car. Here is a list of what we need to get started:

• small pliers;
• sandpaper;
• double sided tape;
• screwdrivers of different sizes;
• photo paper Lomond Satin, matte, with a density of 280 g.
• scissors.

Stage 1. Disassembly.

We proceed to disassemble the panel. Unscrew the two screws at the top. Then we disconnect three connectors and now you can comfortably sit at the table and unscrew the devices.

Stage 2. We shoot arrows.

Use 2 screwdrivers and a hair dryer for this.

Be careful not to damage the tachometers.

Stage 3. processing of the plastic substrate.

We take sandpaper and sand the substrate.

Stage 4. Intermediate.

As a result of your manipulations, the following should be on the table:

• opaque part of the scale (1);
• old scale (2);
• printouts of the new outer side of the scale (3);
• scale substrate (4);
• tachometer (5);
• arrow.

Stage 5. Printouts.

Carefully cut out the printouts with sharp scissors.

Stage 6. Fastening.

We attach the substrate to the scale. We fix the opaque part of the scale with double-sided tape. If the glue does not warp the paper at temperature amplitudes, it can also be used.

Here is the opaque part already glued. For its manufacture, photo paper with a black fill was used. You can use other opaque and thin material.

Stage 7. Construction collection.

We try on the scale using the clearance. The holes are marked with numbers 1 and 2. This is adhesive tape, visible through photographic paper. This can be corrected by making a plastic backing.

We fasten everything to regular screws.

Panel assembly. The calibration of the arrows will be on the car.

Stage 8. Calibration.

We warm up the car well, in the middle position we fasten the arrow t-ry of the cooled liquid. We do degassing - we put the tachometer needle at idle. Most likely, she stands incorrectly, may either not move at all or move jerkily. Remove and install it again until it moves properly! We roll out gasoline and set the “Fuel level” arrow to the zero position until the signal lamp lights up.

First, we string the arrow in the “half-tank” position, after which it begins to move, bottom or top, reaching the limiter. Here it must be removed and again quickly put in place and fixed “to zero”. Next, we measure the speed, follow which direction and by how much, there will be an error, after which we remove the panel and the device itself. We press the inner rotating part, which is at the back of the device, with a screwdriver, and then scroll the arrow.

Consider the main options for tuning dashboard elements. Since each brand of car has its own - special layout, you may not be able to accurately copy the ideas below to your car, but in any case, the sequence of actions will be the same.

1. Reupholstering the instrument mask
Fitting the dashboard visor is not an easy task, the complex shape of the part does not allow the mask to be drawn without a seam.
The dashboard visor can be upholstered in Alcantara, faux or natural leather. The material and neat seam nicely complement the panel.
// don't try to drag the panel with the carpet. It turns out ugly
In the case when the part is strongly curved, then you can’t do without a pattern and seams.
First you need to dismantle the dashboard mask by unscrewing 2 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom. Now you can remove the pattern, marking the places where the seams will pass. It is better to add 1 cm for each seam. For a pattern, thick Whatman paper or paper tape is perfect.

We transfer the template we received to the material and sew the pieces using a sewing machine. It is recommended to use an American collared seam. After that, it remains only to glue the resulting cover on the visor.

2. Starting the engine from the button
The engine start button is an ignition method that smoothly transitions from luxury cars to the middle segment. Everything large quantity modern cars get rid of old system engine start.

There are several options (schemes) for installing a button to start the engine. They differ in several nuances:

1. The key to start the engine through the button is used (the key turns on the ignition, the button starts the engine)
2. The key to start the engine through the button is not used (pressing the button completely replaces the key)
3. Through the button, you can separately turn on the ignition (pressed the button - the ignition turned on, pressed the button and the brake pedal - started the engine)

Let's try to show the main points of connecting the engine start button.
1. Starting the engine with a button (with the ignition key)
This method is the easiest in our opinion.

The button does not work when the engine is running, that is, the starter does not spin, but starts working after the engine is turned off and the ignition is turned on with the key.
We take the ignition relay with a block of wires. (only 4 wires, 2 high current circuit (yellow contacts on the relay itself) and 2 low current circuit (white contacts).
We throw the wire of the high-current circuit at pin 15 of the ignition switch, and the second at pin 30 of the same lock (one pink and the second red).

We throw one wire of the low-current circuit on - ground, and the second on the green wire on it + appears during ignition and interrupt the wire from the relay to the green wire with our button.

2. Starting the engine with a button (without ignition key)
The circuit uses a rear fog lamp relay. You can buy it or build it yourself.

You need a large wire with a terminal connected to pink.
There are also thin wires: we isolate the red and blue ones with a strip, and we throw the gray one on the ignition or connect it with the red one, otherwise the BSC will not work. Any diode will do.
It is convenient to connect the backlight of the button and the power of the relay to the alarm. If the engine stalls, then press the button - the ignition will turn off, press the button again - the engine will start.

3. Button to start the engine with the pedal depressed.
They took the circuit with the rear fog lamp relay as a basis and finalized it.
We use a button with fixation, which we connect to contacts 87 and 86 of the ignition relay. She can turn on the ignition. It is more correct to make a separate inclusion of the ignition through the pedal.
Usually, to start the engine, use the brake pedal to turn on the ignition through the button.
As an option, you can still use not a pedal, but a handbrake, because. he also has a trailer.
To start the engine from the button through the brake pedal, you need:
86 starter relay connect to brake lights, or use a relay (as you prefer)




As a start button for the motor, you can use:
Buttons of domestic cars (for example, the button for opening the trunk of a VAZ 2110 (without fixation)
Universal buttons (latching and non-latching)
Buttons from foreign cars (for example, BMW)
Modify the button (apply a picture yourself)

3. Frame for navigator
One of the best places where you can build a navigator in many cars is the central air duct, but for this it needs to be finalized.

You can install the monitor in the baffle up to 7 inches, but here we will consider the placement of the XPX-PM977 navigator in 5 inches.
First, remove the deflector. After that, we cut out the central partition and the sides of the back side so that the monitor is recessed and parallel to the front surface of the deflector. As the basis of the frame, we use the cover of the navigator. To eliminate voids, we use grids from columns.

We use painter's tape for gluing and sculpt the frame with epoxy. After drying, remove and glue the frame using glue

We apply putty and wait until it hardens. Then we remove the excess with fine-grained sandpaper, after which we repeat this until an even shape is obtained.




It remains only to paint the frame. We use aerosol paint, apply it in several layers.




We block the air flow from the navigator using a sheet of celluloid and adhesive tape. Snap on the deflector.




By analogy, you can build a tablet into the panel, and, if desired, also make it removable.

Behind the grids (which go along the edges of the navigator) you can put a diode backlight led strip. It would look very nice.
.

4. Illumination of the instrument panel
We decided to use 3 colors for illumination at once.
Instrument scales - illuminated in blue.
Numbers are in white
Red zones - respectively in red.
First, remove the instrument cluster. Then you need to carefully remove the arrows. Next, carefully remove the backing of the numbers. It is made from a dense polyethylene tape. The backing is glued on. With careful, competent effort, it is well removed.
You should get something like this:


Next, you need to lay the substrate on the paper, face down. A light filter is applied on its back side. Which we wash with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. After we clean the coating used to fix the light filter.
You should get the following


Now you can start cutting out the base where the LEDs will be soldered. You can use textolite, if not, then you can use thick cardboard. In it we cut out the base for the diodes.


We use different colors of LEDs, so it is necessary to make a light intake (otherwise the colors will mix). We make a slot in the center of the base to create a light intake between the two diode scales. We cut a line from the same cardboard in size and height and insert it into the slot made between the two rows of diodes.




Now you need to solder the LEDs in parallel:


For the arrows, solder two red LEDs at the base and point their lenses up.
Similarly, we highlight all other scales and numbers.


We solder + and - to the tracks from standard light bulbs and, observing the polarity, solder the wires.
Now you need to set the arrows. We carefully fasten them to the motor drives, while planting them deeply is not worth it, otherwise the arrows will cling to the scales. After we collect everything in the reverse order and connect.

An interesting modification of such illumination is possible. You can take RGB three-crystal diodes (they are brighter and more reliable than usual + their glow can be controlled) and install them by connecting
Let's explain the difference! In this case, by default, the backlight will shine in exactly the same way (only much brighter), but if desired, by pressing the button on the remote control remote control you can change the color of instrument lighting and even more - turn it on in light music mode!
You can also add front passenger footwell lighting by connecting it to the same controller. To do this, we recommend using the It turns out that the illumination of the panel and the legs glows in the same color or simultaneously in the light and music mode.

5. Making a rack for additional devices

A radical and very interesting solution - podiums for additional devices in the window rack.
To begin with, we measure a convenient distance between the sensors, inside the cabin. We remove the plastic stand, clean it with sandpaper so that the glue holds better.


Cups may not be included with the devices, then they can be made from a plastic pipe of the desired diameter. Now you need to temporarily fix the resulting podiums at the right angle. After that, we once again try on the devices and cut holes in the rack to deepen them sufficiently. At this stage, the most important thing is to see if they are conveniently located.

Now, in order for everything to be beautiful, it is necessary to make a smooth descent from the device to the rack. This can be done in different ways.
In one embodiment, pieces of plastic pipe or cardboard can be used. We cut out small molds and glue them so that we get a smooth descent from the sensor to the rack.
In another option, any fabric that needs to be wrapped around our blanks will do. We fix the fabric with clips so that it does not slip.
We lay fiberglass on top of cardboard, pipe or fabric and then apply epoxy glue. Here it is also important to apply fiberglass to the rack itself in order to securely fix the instrument sockets. After that, we wait until our design dries.
Next, we cut off the excess fiberglass and clean the structure. During the stripping process, you cannot work without a respirator - it's harmful! Then, using fiberglass putty, we create the smooth shapes we need. We do this until we get a flat surface. The next layer will be putty for plastic. Apply, wait until dry, clean. Repeat this until the surface is as smooth as possible.











It remains only to create an attractive look for our catwalks. To do this, we use either a primer followed by painting, or a constriction with material (a more complex option). Finally, we insert the devices and connect them.

A very interesting addition would be to install a neon ring in the gap between the edges of the device and the end of the cup, or, as an option, from the inside along the visor of the device, if any. It would be very futuristic! This would require about

Sometimes, it happens that the dashboard peels off from time to time, the paint cracks, and it simply does not look presentable. And some just get bored and want something new, bright, unique, in a word, do something not like everyone else. In the first case, everything is simple. You can buy the original instrument panel substrate and not know the worries. But for those who want to somehow stand out, this option won't fit. Of course, you can buy alternative substrates, or you can make them yourself ...

Here is such a fun tidy Pucca Style was on my ex. But I will write a post about it a little later, I have not yet collected all the information. In the meantime, I'll write about tuning the instrument panel with my own hands ...

To make a dashboard with our own hands, we need:
1. Dashboard templates (I'll attach them at the end of the post);
2. Photoshop to open templates and make dashboard;
3. A little imagination and creative thinking.

Personally, I know Photoshop superficially, but despite this, I could easily figure it out and make my own substrates using the example of the existing dashboard templates. It's a pity I didn't have time to print them and install them on my car.

Most main question, this is what to print homemade parting panel substrates on. It all depends on your imagination. Someone prints on photo paper (it is advised to choose matte, because the gloss glares), someone on a regular color printer, and someone on self-adhesive and glues them on top of standard devices. There are a lot of options and here it is better to experiment. Unfortunately, I never got to that point, but I know that my instrument panel was printed on plain paper, which is why, years later, it floated from moisture and with all its appearance asked to make the instrument panel again.

About how to disassemble the instrument panel will not paint. I do not want to overload the post, but if necessary, I will definitely write. The main thing when you remove it, do everything as carefully as possible. Be sure to remember the position of the arrows on the running car. V otherwise if they are not set correctly, they will show inaccurate data. The arrows come out tight, they must be pulled very carefully so as not to break the stem. After you make the instrument panel, install the arrows, be sure to check the performance. If the arrow is pushed too hard, it will not work. Everything is established by an expert method and then checked. And only if the arrow works and shows the correct data, you can collect and twist everything.

If after all of the above you are confident in your abilities and continue to think about how to make a dashboard with your own hands - download the substrate template below.
(WinRar archiver)
2.0 MB.
Template format: PSD
(WinRar archiver)
1.2 MB.
Template format: PSD
Attention! Be sure to check all files for viruses. I don't want anyone to pick up something, especially on my site, and then blame me. All files are clean at the time of uploading, but you download them at your own risk.

If you have any questions - ask them in the comments. Let's discuss, maybe I can be of some help.

That's all for today. Until new posts.

P.S. According to the good old tradition, do not forget to subscribe to blog updates, tell friends about the project, share a link to the project, leave detailed comments on the topic of the post, retweet, like, click on "I like". I invite all motorists and motorists to the forum. You can find a link to it in the top menu of the blog.

Thank you all for your attention. Good luck.