Forbidden antenna fa 20 drawings. Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods

With the kind permission of Vladimir (VBM), we reprint his description of the design of the FA-20 sector panel antenna, which, despite its simplicity, has proven itself to be high-performance and reliable.

1. Introduction

The original description of the author is located at http://sterr.narod.ru/wifi/fa20.htm. Description from Volodya - http://vbm.lan23.ru/wifi/fa20.html. Much can be found about this design. positive feedback in the network, but it is noted that manufacturing accuracy is of great importance, especially for vibrators and mounting holes in the reflector. Also of great importance is the observance of the distance between the reflector and the vibrators. Be sure to adhere to the specified dimensions, this will allow you to achieve maximum efficiency antennas.

2. Construction

The antenna consists of four structural elements: a reflector (1), two types of vibrators (2, 3) and a connecting bus (4), which serves to connect the vibrators:

3. Materials

To assemble the antenna, we need:

1. One-sided foil textolite (for reflector)
2. Double-sided foil textolite (for vibrators)
3. Strip of brass or copper foil (for bus)
4. Aluminum corner 25×25 mm
5. Rivets
6. F connector

4. Manufacturing

First of all, you need to make a "trough" of the reflector. To do this, according to the drawing, we cut out a rectangle of foil textolite 490 × 222 mm for the bottom, mark it (it is best to core from the side of the foil) and drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm for the racks for vibrators, tin them. After that, we make the sides of the appropriate size from an aluminum corner 25 × 25 mm, and fasten them with rivets with reverse side reflector:

Blanks


For accurate marking, it is best to use a caliper.


When attaching the corners with rivets, also fasten the edges of the corners

After assembling the “trough” of the reflector, it can be slightly strengthened by gluing the corners on the reverse side with mounting tape, and gluing the vertical seams with two-component epoxy glue:

Structural reinforcement

Volodya came up with an original technology for manufacturing vibrators from fiberglass laminated on both sides. Advantage this method in that two absolutely identical vibrators are obtained from one workpiece.

First, a rectangular blank of the desired size is cut out of textolite:

Preparation for the manufacture of vibrators

1. Cut out rectangles with metal scissors
2. We delaminate fiberglass, we try to delaminate halves of the same thickness
3. We make cuts along the red lines of the rectangles with 2 ordinary household scissors
4. We take a broken blade of a hacksaw for metal and cut along the green lines of the rectangles 2
5. With fine sandpaper, carefully clean the ends of the resulting vibrators

Ready vibrators

As a result, we get two vibrators of identical sizes. Care must be taken to ensure that the non-foil side of the vibrator is smooth, this may require removing a layer of fiberglass. After that, we drill and tin holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm for the racks.

After manufacturing the vibrators, it is necessary to make a tire (4) from brass or copper foil, with the help of which we will later connect the “tails” of the vibrators.

All elements of the future antenna are ready, you can start assembling. To do this, you need to find a remote gasket under the vibrator. Select its thickness so that the total thickness of the textolite and the spacer gives a distance of 6 mm between the reflector and the vibrator foil.

To install vibrators, it is best to use a smooth thick copper wire with a diameter of about 2 mm. We cut it into small pieces, solder them in the holes of the "trough". Then, placing a spacer next to the stand, solder one edge of the vibrator, then similarly - the other, after moving the spacer. We bite off the extra parts of the racks. When installing, narrow vibrators are placed at the edges, wider ones in the center.

Antenna assembly

After installing the vibrators, we fix the connector on the “trough” and connect the “tails” of the vibrators with the help of a tire, carefully soldering them, then solder the central vein of the connector to the tire.

5. Installation

The easiest way to attach the antenna to the bar is to drill holes in the "trough" between the central vibrators, and screw it on with screws or screws. If you plan to fix the antenna on the pipe, it is better to rivet an aluminum corner about 30 cm long to the antenna on the back of the reflector, then attach the corner to the mast using clamps or ties.

Thanks to the forum members for the information provided.

This article is based on personal experience building WiFi networks over a long distance. In our case, the goal was to stretch from home unlimited Internet to work. After reading various sources and a bunch of forums, it was decided to build this link and with full confidence we set to work. I will also say that a distance of 5 km, by the standards of members of the forum, is not a long distance, but as a maximum, an average one.
In our case, the "pioneer" WiFi hotspot access from the manufacturer D-link - DWL 2100AP. On our site you can get advice, and in the Download section you can find useful programs for this point. For a long time and painfully, the decision was made - which antenna to choose after all, and finally, thanks to the members of the forum, the choice fell on a successful antenna model in the 2.4 GHz band - FA20. Easy to manufacture and efficient in work, it “forgave” us some flaws in its manufacture.
What we needed:

After choosing the antenna, we thought about the method of its manufacture. It was customary to make wifi antenna from textolite, but according to our own technology. Somewhere in the forums it was said about the method of splitting double-sided PCB, about cutting out from foil, but we decided to go our own way, and I hope that our experience will be useful to someone. Antenna pattern can be downloaded here -.
Using a jigsaw, vibrators were cut out, cuts were made with a clerical knife in pre-marked places.

Using a knife and tweezers, carefully remove the copper layer from the textolite. Cut out the reflector and sides. Tip: consider the thickness of the cut line when marking the textolite, and also do not forget to process the edges of the textolite with a small file. Two copper strips were cut from a 1mm thick copper plate.

Copper wire was used to connect the vibrators to the reflector. To withstand a distance of 6 mm, it is necessary to find or make a gasket with a thickness of 4.5 mm, taking into account the textolite. A stripped RG-6U cable is tightly inserted into a piece of copper tube (the antenna of any radio receiver). We insert our tube with a cable from the reverse side into a pre-drilled hole in the reflector and solder it to the copper layer of the reflector, and the central core of the cable to the copper strip. Since the standard antenna is no longer useful to us, we use it to make a connector for the second end of the cable.

We approached the mounting of the antenna with the mast seriously. We needed to easily rotate the antenna in any plane, this is necessary for fine tuning. It was decided to mount the antenna on a spherical one from the car, which, in turn, is mounted on a 2 m high iron angle mast. An example of attaching a ball to the antenna in the photo.

The Internet is as necessary today as air, and modern life without it is simply unthinkable. And how joyful it is to realize that there are more and more free Wi-Fi access points. But not everyone manages to use them, because the signal is not strong enough. The FA-20 panel antenna will help out in such a situation, which today we will offer you to do it yourself.
In fact, this device is quite simple, and will not cause difficulties in manufacturing even in an ordinary apartment. But the benefits from it will be pretty tangible, and maybe even some of the radio amateurs will be inspired to take up the manufacture of such equipment seriously.

Antenna characteristics
The panel antenna consists of 2 main parts - a reflector and vibrators. Line of vibrators connected common contact from which derived coaxial cable, leading to the socket of the external Wi-FI antenna of the router, fixed on the back of the device. The antenna works as an amplifier, which can be judged by comparing the signal power from the standard antenna of the router (the author used tp-link TL-WN722N) - 5db, and from FA-20 - 22db.
Necessary materials:

• One-sided foil textolite or getinaks, 430x200 mm, thickness - 1.5 mm;
• A piece of sheet metal (preferably galvanized), 435x205 mm, thickness 0.5-1 mm;
• TV coaxial cable RG-8X 50 Ohm;
• Antenna vibrator drawing template printed on vinyl;
• Photoresist;
• Ferric chloride for etching boards;
• A can of aerosol varnish for textolite;
• Soda, acetone or alcohol;
• Hardware: 3 mm bolts - 12 pcs, nuts - 32 pcs.

Tools:

• Drill with cutting disc for cutting getinaks;
• Drill with a drill 3-3.5 mm;
• Soldering iron with solder;
• Painting knife, scissors;
• Pliers, scissors for metal;
• Construction rubber roller for rolling films;
• Tray for etching the antenna board;
• A piece of glass and an ultraviolet lamp for photolithography;
• Hairdryer or iron to heat the photoresist;
• Sandpaper-zero;
• Hot glue gun;
• Kern, hammer;
• Metal ruler for marking holes.

Wi-Fi manufacturing antennas
Stage one - we make a panel of vibrators
We mark a sheet of foil textolite to the size of our antenna, and cut it out with a cutting disc of a drill. This procedure can also be performed with an ordinary paint knife, making cuts along the marking line on both sides of the sheet, and then breaking them off manually.










On transparent film inkjet printers print out the antenna vibrator template. It will turn out from two sheets, which are then easily connected to each other.






For etching according to the photoresist technology, it is necessary to prepare the foil side of the getinax by cleaning it with a zero. Surfaces can be degreased using acetone or alcohol.








We place the photoresist film on the getinaks, cutting it to size with scissors. We remove the protective layer and glue the photoresist, getting rid of air bubbles by rolling with a rubber wallpaper roller.








After that, we apply a film of the vibrator template, and cover it with ordinary glass. We use an ultraviolet lamp to illuminate the photoresist. holding time at different manufacturers this material is different. It took the author 5 seconds for his film ordered from China. for each processed area of ​​the board.






Now it is necessary to additionally heat the photoresist so that it firmly sticks to the surface of the getinaks. We remove the template, a sheet of glass, and heat the film with a hairdryer or iron through paper. Remove the top protective layer of photoresist.








We wash off the non-exposed photoresist in the solution baking soda by placing a getinax plate in the bath. After a few minutes, we clean off the remnants of the film with a used toothbrush.






Getinaks is ready for pickling. We dilute ferric chloride in warm water, and dip the plate into a container with a solution. It must be stirred periodically.






We saturate the old alkali solution with soda ash, and place a plate in it to get rid of the remaining photoresist. We wash the resulting board with plain water.








We mark the centers of the rectangles of the vibrators on the board, and core them for drilling. The hole must be made for the 3 mm mounting bolts. The author used a stepping or precision conical drill, which is convenient for removing burrs.












Stage two - preparing the reflector
From a piece of galvanized sheet, the most resistant to corrosion, we cut out a copy of our vibrator plate. Holes for fixing bolts can be easily transferred to tin by making notches with the same drill. We drill holes on the tin through a wooden lining.








We tighten the bolts with two nuts on the reverse side of the plate, making the necessary gap between the reflector 3 mm, and the total distance between the vibrators and the reflector is 6 mm. We fix the tin with the help of the third nut.














In the upper part of the reflector, we make a hole for a coaxial cable, the central core of which must be soldered to the vibrator plate, and the braid to the reflector.
We solder the second end of the cable in place of the external antenna to the router. We attach it to the reflector on the back of the antenna with hot glue.












We protect the front side of the vibrator board from oxidation with an aerosol colorless varnish.






For home use This antenna can be placed on a windowsill or balcony. If you plan to use it outdoors, any bracket leading to the mast on the roof or outside the window easily clings to the reflector.






Watch the video

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1. PASTE-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH YOUR HANDS. 2. All about female hormones. 3. 5 reasons to drink lemon water on an empty stomach in the morning: 4. Top 8 healthiest fruits. 5. The true power of dandelion. 6. LOSE WEIGHT WITH FLAX SEEDS. 7. Hair grows like crazy from this mask! 8. NECK AND DECOLLE: 9. 14 ways to quickly relieve stress. 10. The benefits of black clay. 11. Anti-stress balm. 12. FROM BACK PAIN. #beautyhealth================================================= ===== PASTE-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH YOUR HANDS. The paste is intended for brushing teeth and treating gums. Consists entirely of natural ingredients. Suitable for children, you can swallow without fear for your health. It has a pronounced smell of propolis and cloves, pleasant to the taste. The paste is not at all abrasive, made on the basis of pure chalk. It does not contain soda, which many manufacturers add to pastes. Baking soda damages tooth enamel, although it is a whitening ingredient. Composition: basis - calcium carbonate (pure chalk) Propolis solution. Medical tests have shown that propolis reduces the amount of enzymes that help bacteria “stick” to the surface of the tooth by 70%. Scientists have found in propolis almost a hundred constituent parts and two substances that provide protection to the teeth. Propolis is one of the best remedies for the treatment of gum disease. Cedar oleoresin and cedar oil. They have an anti-inflammatory and healing effect on the gums. Gum has absorbable, healing and antiseptic properties. Scientists have proven that cedar resin has an antitumor effect. Strengthens gums. Clove tincture. Has a strong healing effect. (used in dental offices when "medicine" is put in) Med. Enhances absorption of nutrients, imparts a slightly sweet taste (instead of glycerin, which is used in industrial toothpastes). If the teeth are damaged, does not cause pain from hit due to the small amount. Natural essential oil of anise and mint. The composition can be varied - something to add, and something to remove. The proportions are approximately the following: 50 g of chalk + 1 tsp each of cedar oil and resin solution, 1 tablespoon of propolis and clove tinctures. If something is missing, then you can do without it. When cooking, everyone will get their own recipe, their own taste and their own consistency (but it’s better, of course, to make the paste a paste))) Use as toothpaste: Paste-balm has the consistency of a paste, so you can easily “scoop up” a small amount with a wet brush . Over time, you will determine the amount you need. Attention! Pasta DOES NOT FOAM! Foaming substances that are part of industrial pastes harm the teeth. You don't need foam to clean your teeth. Cleaning occurs at the expense of chalk, which is part of the paste and your toothbrush, the rest of the substances heal, have a healing effect. A liquid fraction may form on the surface of the paste - this is a solution of cloves, feel free to use it as a gum balm. Use of the balm for medicinal purposes: Apply the balm with rubbing movements on the teeth and gums with clean fingers. If you suffer from periodontitis, you need to do a daily gum massage with balm, thumb and forefinger from the gums up along the tooth. After applying the balm, leave the balm for 5 minutes, then rinse by rinsing your mouth. The balm can also be swallowed, since all components are also used orally for treatment, but it should be remembered that the balm takes microbes from the oral cavity, so it is better to spit it out. If you suffer from gum disease, you can make an intensive treatment balm (to massage at night, leaving the balm on the gums). The composition of the balm: a solution of cedar resin, cedar oil, beeswax. The balm has the consistency of a liquid cream, bitter cedar taste, relieves pain and pulling sensations from the gums during the first minute. It has a colossal healing effect (your gums have already been cured) TIP: when brushing your teeth, it is better not to take a lot of paste at once, but to take a few times a little for the outer surface of the teeth, chewing surface, etc. Author: Anastasia Aryamnova

WI-FI antenna FA-20 (FA-20) we make the most powerful directional panel antenna ourselves!

This article describes how you can make a powerful FA-20 panel antenna yourself with vibrators made by etching on foil textolite.
The manufacturing technology of the FA-20 is similar to the panel antenna we made earlier, when building this antenna, you can safely be guided by this article, the only difference is that this antenna is closed to direct current.
Important! The more carefully the WI-FI antenna is assembled, the more efficiently it will work.

What is needed for this:

A piece of foil textolite 430x200 mm, thickness 1.5 mm;
- bolts - Ø 3 mm and nuts for them (8 bolts for vibrators + 3 nuts per bolt, 4 bolts for fastening the connector. Total: 12 bolts, 32 nuts);
- a piece of tin 435x205 mm (for the reflector);
- a set of RF connectors 50 Ohm (N type male-female kit for antenna, connector for access point);
- cable 50 Ohm (RG-8X);
- ferric chloride for etching boards;
- a can of paint (for painting sheet metal) and a non-conductive varnish for textolite;
- an antenna stencil on a vinyl self-adhesive film and a mounting film for transferring the antenna to textolite.

I ordered an antenna stencil from a company that deals with plotter cutting, and as many as 4 antenna patterns fit on a piece of vinyl, the price has not changed, and it all cost a very modest amount together with cutting and mounting film.

By the way, here is the stencil itself [FA-20], ready for cutting.

The rest of the positions, except for a spray can of paint, were obtained from the radio market.

Antenna stencil on textolite.

After that, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the antenna. To begin with, we clean and degrease the foil-coated surface of the textolite with acetone or a solvent. Then we cut off one stencil from a common piece and paste a mounting film on top of it. It is most convenient to stick vinyl on textolite and remove the mounting film at an angle of 45 ° (The piece of textolite I bought was somewhat larger, but nothing prevents it from being cut off later?). The stencil is carefully ground to the textolite.

Then you need to find a container in which the antenna will be etched. (I did not find a container of this size, so I used the lid from the old Soviet TV into which he laid a plastic film, he already poured warm water there and poured ferric chloride).

Reflector blank and vibrators on textolite.

So, the textolite is etched, the next step is marking and drilling. First, we mark the drilling points on the vibrators, this is their center (for a narrow vibrator, the center is 21.5 mm horizontally, 27 mm vertically, and wide 24 mm horizontally and 27 mm, respectively). The connection point with the central contact of the connector relative to the center of the right vibrator is 60.5 mm (or 60.7 mm from the edge of the narrow part of the vibrator on the right). To put it simply, we are looking for the center of the wide part of the vibrator. Kernim! Then we align the workpiece with pickled vibrators in the center of the tin plate and fix it (for example, with a clamp) and drill holes.

Now you need to screw the connector and paint the tin plate, remembering to protect the connector from getting paint on it. While the paint dries, you can screw the bolts into the vibrators and tighten them from the back (!) With two nuts. Why two? We look: the thickness of the textolite is 1.5 mm, two nuts are 4.5 mm. In total, the required distance from the reflector to the vibrator was obtained.

The gap between the reflector and the vibrators must be clearly observed!

Although there is another option, use brass screws that screw the motherboard to the case system block, their height is 6 mm. This option is suitable for those cases when the vibrator is made of tin, brass or other sheet metals.

Gap between reflector and vibrators.

When the paint is dry, you can start assembling the antenna, twist the textolite with the base, solder the central core of the connector, varnish the vibrators on the textolite, assemble the cord.

Antenna FA-20 assembled, pigtail, wall mount with clamps.

Antenna FA-20. Back view.

That's actually all! The antenna is ready to go!
Good luck!